February 27, 2008
WALK IN THE PARK
This time we strategize our walk. Andy and I get a second opinion on directions and Dr. Owyang goes with us. We’re like the Three Amigos. I feel safe flanked by a kung fu master on one side and a black belt karateka on the others. Master, what is the best technique when confronted by a group of thugs?” I ask. “Grasshopper, your body is your temple and it is sacred. You do not want to blemish the outside fearing that you will have internal disharmony.” “In other words run your butt off and you make sure you are not the slowest one, Grasshopper.” We had a brisk walk to the Arche de Triomphe in Vientiane. The French influence is still apparent in names of buildings and businesses, like “La Petit Sushi.” There are a number of temples and the monks are seen leaving the temple grounds to go through their daily routine of walking and begging. Many people have already been to the market already and surprisingly, there are joggers. One in particular is running around the Arche and punching in the air a la Rocky Balboa. An elderly man is practicing his tai chi. We past the Presidential Palace, Laos’ version of the “White House”, and, curiously do not see guards or military presence. This is Laos PDR (People’s Democratic Republic) not referred to as the “C” word. I guess it is considered an alternative democracy. Lester and Larry have already had a head start and travel past the Arche and we can’t catch them. They get up most mornings and are even seen hitting the streets at night. Dave also likes to go out nights as well to hit the internet café. He had an encounter with a very friendly Laotian “lady of the night” the other night who grabbed his hand and greeted him with “$10.” “For what?!” he said as he grabbed his hand back.
BOMBS AWAY
We head out on the outskirts of the city near the Thailand border. We cross a bridge that connects the countries and is called the Friendship Bridge. Apparently where we are going they still have live ordinances from the Vietnam War in the ground and sometimes an unsuspecting individual will be killed or maimed when one of them explode. According to Richard and Pastor, Laos was the most bombed country in the world. What country in their right mind would have done that to this little country? US as in U.S. Who won the war anyway? Pastor, who is a lot older than me, gave me a history lesson. We travel down the road paralleling the Laos border. You can swim across the Mekong River about 2 miles wideif you wanted to escape Laos. There is not much separating the countries. It’s almost as easy to cross into Thailand as it is to cross the US/Mexican border. You can leave but you can’t come back. That’s the choice you make to escape the country. May you’ll never see your family and friends again. That’s the price of freedom here.
LAST STOP: HATXAYFONG DISTRICT HOSPITAL
Our last stop in Laos and our last day of mission work is at the Hatxayfong District Hospital. It’s somewhat comforting that there is a new addition being built. It is still a small building maybe 1500 sq. ft. The patients are already lining up outside jockeying for position. This is our last day in Laos so we are trying to see as many patients as we can. At first the workers did not seem to be happy that we were there. They weren’t smiling. I think we were more of an inconvenience since we had to move things around. In one “wing” there was a large bee hive with bees flying around INSIDE the building, so we had to BEE careful. I wanted to work over there in case there was a sting operation. The dentists are crammed into a room with a single dental chair which isn’t much use. Larry works in the aisle next to a door leading outside so there is good lighting with a slight breeze at least part of the day until the sun shifts. Rachel, Lester, and Bill are quite intimate by now and make do and it is getting hot inside their room. It’s a pretty routine day for the medical and optometrists. Clinic from my perspective is actually quite fun. I get to play doctor. It’s still a little our of my comfort zone because the perfect specialty for this job is family practice. But my surgical background also is invaluable if I had to do procedures and take it one step further. I have to dig way back into my medical school training to diagnose many ailments. Paroxysmal Nocturnal Hemoglobinuria. What is that patient doing in our clinic when it needs the hospital? Whether or not we can treat a patient is another thing and how long we can treat it is even only a short time. Several patients wanted second opinions for upcoming procedures, like a back operation. Many patients have gone to other doctors and are asking us about their treatment plan wanting assurance from the docs. Even a government official opted to see one of the American docs at one of our clinics rather than see one of their own. The patients are fairly appreciative even when we can’t help. Some have strokes, yellow hand syndrome, or burn contractures. I saw a 3 year old with contracted fingers from burns and I saw a 50+ year old with a similar injury. He was afflicted with this contracture where he couldn’t extend the 4th and 5th digit since he was a child. “See, it works fine for me” he said as he demonstrated his limited hand movements that he has been living with for 50 years.
AMAZING GRACE: THAILAND 1194 LAOS 891
As far as we know we have just established a position in the Guiness Book of World Records. We have treated an incredible and unfathomable 2085 patients in a week and a half in Thailand and Laos. During the last mission trip we treated about 1000 patients. We’re cooking. While we pat ourselves on our backs for far exceeding our expectations and well surpassing last years numbers we still are saddened by the numbers that were either not seen or we couldn’t offer them assistance with what we had. However, we did offer them a level of sophistication unequalled by their own current health care system. Some countries are sophisticated and still can’t get adequate health care to everyone, although it is available. A small country west of here, USA, comes to mind. The country is impoverished and the health care is a reflection of this state. Some live on $100 US per month. Many have their own businesses or “shops” as part of their home to supplement their usual day job. It was disheartening to see a frail looking mother with her 3 very young children begging at the entrance of the hotel. She apparently was going door to door looking for handouts. If was difficult to see and you struggle with giving them money or food if anything. As I do at home, I like to buy food rather than give them money, lest they use the money for drugs or alcohol or cigarettes. My prejudice extends abroad and I choose to give her food. There is a lady in front of the adjacent building cooking corn and something like a hot dog on a stick. I quickly deal with the lady to give me 4 corn husks and 3 food sticks as I loose sight of the family making way down the street. I catch up with them a few doors down and proudly give her the two bags. I don’t see a smile, nor expect one, or acknowledgement. My act of giving was my satisfaction. Money is the only common language and I didn’t understand what she was saying but what followed was unexpected. I turned back to the hotel as she continued her journey. I glanced back at her and she threw the bag of food sticks to the ground as if in disgust rejecting my hand out. Now, I don’t get it. There are 3 hungry looking children that could have eaten the food. Were they vegetarian? Did she rather have money than food? Isn’t that the essence of survival-food? I wonder if strategically, if she didn’t look impoverished walking around with bags of food in her hand, others would not give her money. I try not to second guess her anymore since it’s not my position to judge but I see this at home where people use different techniques to beg at the mercy of our sympathy. I have seen more beggars in San Francisco than I have seen here, clutching their small baby or reading the newspaper next to the collection cup as they sip their coffee from McDonalds. I think is a difference in work ethic.
EXTRA! EXTRA! READ ALL ABOUT IT!
For you enquiring minds who want to know the FCBC Medical Mission Team made the Lao newspaper, “People”, I guess their version of People Magazine. There was a nice photo of the dentists working under the tent from the previous day. It shows Lester working away, and Bill posing for the camera with Pastor Saykham. He was still wearing his mask because he didn’t want to show off his perfect set of teeth. Now, my Lao isn’t very good but loosely translated the article seems to talk about a medical team from America, starring William Ho, DDS, who have come to help people of Laos. Over a three day period the team composed of medical, dental, and eye doctors went to three places: Nashay Church, Xaysettha Hospital, and the Hatxayfong Hospital. The team spent 3 days with people and helped 1700 kids (political propaganda) with a budget of 70,000,000 kip (about $9000 US). People tried to come up to Dr. Ho for autographs and pictures but you know Bill, he’s paparazzi shy.
POLITICS
We had a very nice dinner at one of the local restaurants, Salongxay Restaurant, located in the Lane Xong Hotel. (Bill, remember this one for the summer trip, only $33 US per night.) There was about a 7 course meal for $5. We had a joint dinner with several governmental dignitaries including Minister of Health, pastors from the LEC, and VP of LEC. They exchanged pleasantries and Bill presented the Laotians with tokens of appreciation. Pastor Jack presented them with a framed letter from the American Baptist Church with regard to having the privilege to work here in Laos. They had expressed something to the effect of “looking forward to working with you soon, or else.” We had a enjoyable dinner with about 35 attending. There was a nice show of Laotian dancing and international singing and a contortionist that was a little twisted. As we left I couldn’t help but notice a elderly Caucasian sitting with a young pretty Asian girl at dinner time. They made an odd couple, I thought. Then after dinner she “escorted” him upstairs, I presume for a night cap. Dave, you can ask that fella what $10 got HIM.
It’s time for my night cap…Geritol.
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